Synthetic, Botanical Agents Emerging as Promising for Melasma

Synthetic, Botanical Agents Emerging as Promising Melasma Treatments

Doug Brunk

May 17, 2022

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BOSTON — Though hydroquinone, retinoids, steroids, and triple combination cream remain gold standards for the topical treatment of melasma, new synthetic and botanical topicals are emerging as adjuvant and alternative treatments, according to Nada Elbuluk, MD, MSc.

Dr Nada Elbuluk

One such agent is topical tranexamic acid, an antifibrinolytic medication that inhibits plasminogen activator from converting plasminogen in epidermal basal cells and keratinocytes to plasmin. "What makes tranexamic acid exciting is that it's not just targeting melanogenesis; it's also targeting the vascular component of melasma," Elbuluk, director of the University of Southern California Skin of Color Center and Pigmentary Disorders Program, said at the annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology. "We really don't have any topical agents that are doing that."

Topical tranexamic acid is available in cream and solution formulations ranging from 2% to 5%. It has been studied in different drug delivery carriers (liposomal, liquid crystalline nanoparticle, and glycol co-enhancer carriers), has been combined with other lightening agents, and has been found to reduce Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) scores and reduce melanin while also improving erythema. "That's where it really stands out from hydroquinone and triple combination cream," Elbuluk said.

One studyof patients with melasma found that topical tranexamic acid can decrease the number of CD31-positive vessels and expression of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and downregulated endothelin-1.

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